Sunday, April 22, 2007

Vesenoe Nastroenie - 4/22/07

I am now nearing the last two months of my time here in Samara, and I feel as though I have entered a new (and, I hope, final) phase. I finally sense some momentum behind my various projects. In fact I am now incredibly busy, trying to keep up with all the translations and various documents I need for all the things I am doing. I have found a renewed excitement for my research and am going to try and give it one last push to get some real, hard and useful data in my last 9 weeks. I'm now creating a panel of questions to be used for qualitative interviews, and am in the process of arranging interviews with up to three different groups (frequent support group participants, people living with HIV/AIDS engaged with the healthcare system, but not with any NGO programs, and people living with HIV/AIDS not engaged with the healthcare system, but in contact with NGO outreach workers). If I could conduct enough interviews to make a valid comparison, I think it would make a pretty interesting study. And if I can talk to a few doctors in the process, I will be quite delighted.

I'm also almost finished with preparing the third training, which I will be doing for the organization I'm now working with in Togliatti. This week, I created a Russian-language website to act as a mini-resource center for case management. It has all my training materials on it and some links to decent articles on relevant topics in Russian. I'm hoping I will be able to write a Russian language article about case management by the end my time here, in which I will mention this website.

Last weekend I took a fun little trip to Saratov, the next big city down on the Volga. It is a quaint little town, nestled between some small hills and the Mighty Volga. I went with my three German friends to visit their colleague there, who works for the Goethe Institute. It was quite fun, and, needless to say, I learned a good bit of German. At the top of one of the hills behind the city sits Park Pobedy [Victory Park] the city's obligatory ode the Soviet Union's defeat of Germany during World War II (or the Great Patriotic War, as Russians refer to it). In addition to the gigantic memorial shown below, there was a permanent exhibit of all the military technology of the Soviet Union, from the first tanks used in WWII to the helicopters and planes used to invade Afghanistan. There were missile launching trucks and gigantic bombs. It was easy to forget that the purpose of all this million dollar stuff was to turn human flesh into unusable mush. I'm glad I'm going to become a doctor not a soldier.From below this monument, you can look out upon some amazing views of the city and the Mighty River Volga (including her longest bridge which links Saratov to nearby Engels).Many couples were getting married on the particular Saturday we were at this vista point, and they almost had to wait their turn to take pictures in front of the city scape and release doves into the immense, cloudy sky.All in all, it was a nice little trip, and I ended up killing two birds (not doves) with one stone, as I managed to arrange for myself a meeting with a PSI representative there who was very excited about using me for their case managers there. In fact, I will probably be returning in early June for a two day seminar of my design for all the case managers they work with in the city of Saratov.

Spring is here and I have been enjoying the changes it has brought with it. Certainly all Samara's young people are out and about gulyat'-ing [literally meaning to walk, but colloquially meaning to hang out], and I must admit to having a bit of a veseniy nastroenie [literally, spring mood, usually a reference to the seasonal desire for companionship]. More importantly, I have been watching some of the most wonderful sunsets over the Volga.


This evening, I went to gulyat' with a friend of mine and her sister and brother. They were running late in meeting me on Pushkin Square, so I sat, looking out over the hill descending down to the bank of the Volga, and watched the horizon flare up in front of me. Breathing in the crisp spring air, clean and shivering from the day's brief, chilly showers, I could feel the immensity of the sky under which I sat; I watched as its churning layers of gigantic, sweetly flavored clouds dwarfed the icey grey waters of the river below them; the reds and oranges and violets stretching from me to infinity made the dark brown forests on the opposite bank seem to hide themselves shyly, to quietly bow in reverence. It was a wonderful moment. I tried to stretch it out and savor it, to notice each moment pass, each breath try its best then disappear.

I'm a sucker for things like drama and catharsis. I have always sought out moments of transformative importance. I cannot say if these ten minutes I spent this evening will succeed toward that end, if this sunset will serve as a symbol of some transition to a new life, one with purpose and discipline and payoff. Perhaps it was nothing more than a nice sunset, that very same phenomenon that is going on constantly as the earth's shadow sweeps across it's surface, seen by millions, unnoticed by most.

Who knows? I liked it, anyway.

Labels: , , ,

Thursday, December 14, 2006

An Awl in My Ass (Travel Photos!!) - 12/14/06

So, this weekend, I took a quick trip with a couple friends to Kazan', a city of about 1.1 million people four or five hundred kilometers north of here. My friends I all took the overnight train Friday evening, leaving us in Kazan' Saturday morning at around 6 in the morning. We began our day there with a sleepy walk down the street lamp-lined canal that runs down the middle of the old town, draining Canal's lake into the nearby Volga.


Kazan' is the capital of Tatarstan, one of Russia's "autonomous" ethnic republics. They are something like a cross between a Native American reservation (in that they enjoy relative autonomy under federal jurisdiction) and a state (they are generally the size of states and are rarely contained within other regions). Tatarstan is home to the majority of Russia's Tatar population (you may have heard of steak tartare or tartar sauce -- tartar sauce was invented in France to be served with steak tartare which supposedly comes from the Tatars). The Tatars are an ancient Sunni Muslim ethnic group that dates back the Turkic Ural-Altayans of Southern Siberia and Central Asia that were brought Westward by the Mongol invasion of the 13th Century (thank you Wikipedia!). Their traditional Muslim culture was somewhat supressed in the Soviet era and is now experiencing a revival. In that vein, the city of Kazan' has invested a great deal of money into rebuilding the Kul Sharif mosque (pictured below), which was destroyed by Ivan the terrible upon his defeat of the Kazan Khanate (a medieval Tatar state).


Kul Sharif is the largest mosque in Russia and, supposedly, also in Europe [Look at the tiny little people to the right of the picture below]. I can also tell you from experience [pictured above] that it is too heavy to lift.

The mosqe is contained within the walls of the city's kreml' (the word Russian word kreml' or kremlin as we say in English actually just translates to fortress), which was built in the 16th century on the ruins of the Kazan Khanate's own fortress

The walls have all been rebuilt since the 16th century, of course, but it is still a beautiful site to see, looking out over the Volga.

In addition to the kremlin and the mosque, we saw the city's main pedestrian drag, which is all being refurbished and developed. This town is a happening place.

They even have a new Basket-Kholl (Basket Hall, it is a play on words, both of which are merely transliterations from the English). Kazan's team is called the Unics. I could not for the life of me figure out how they got that name and my Russian friends couldn't explain it to me.

Other highlights of the day include a tiny nationalist demonstration...

...and car tires being sold through a wheel shaped hole in the wall.

Kazan' is a beautiful city. I really recommend going there to anyone who might visit Russia. The beauty of the city, the fun of traveling (even if to a place to which I've been before), and especially the fascinating intersection of Russian/Soviet culture and Sunni Muslim culture [see right] all gave me a strong urge to travel more. There was a museum in the first floor of the mosque on worldwide Islam that had beautiful pictures of the ancient mosques in Samarkand and Bukhara Uzbekistan. By the end of the trip, I had made up my mind: in April, I'm going to take a trip to central Asia and see those mosques for myself.

On the train back to Samara, I told my Russian friends that I had the travel bug, and tried to explain what it was, without knowing the Russian word for bug. It got through to them, though, and they told me the Russian equivalent of the term: in Russian, I would say I have a shylo v popke (an awl in my ass). Meaning, I can't sit down. I'm now entertaining myself by planning my upcoming trip to Siberia/Mongolia and the springtime daydream in the Kyrgyz Republic and Uzbekistan, and probably Glorious Nation Kazakhstan too.

Labels: , , ,